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Glass
Artists Newsletter - April 2008 |
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You
can read our current newsletter here
on-line each month, free of charge. We
hope you will take the opportunity to let
your stained glass artist friends know
about the newsletter and if you have
students, encourage them to read it.
If
you'd like a reminder when a new issue is
published simply send us your e-mail
address.
In
the meantime, we welcome your input and
support. Let us know if you have tips and
techniques or product information you'd
like to share. |
Last
month, the news was full of reports
of how bad the economy was. It was like
they just woke up to it, like they hadn't
noticed that things have slowed down over
the last year.
But what
we've noticed is that forward thinking
builders realize that they need to build
in value in the homes they build, and that
means they know they need stained glass!
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Easter
came early this year, it felt like spring
when the kids and grandkids hunted for
eggs.
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What a
difference a day makes, the day before it
looked like spring, now look at it! |
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| Last
month we showed how to rebuild a
leaded window, this month we show how to
shorten a stained glass panel. Not a
technique we need often, but it comes in
handy when making an existing window fit
in a new window frame.
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How
To Shorten A Stained Glass Panel
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I felt like a transom window I was building was
wrong, but each time I checked the measurements we took, they were right
on. When we showed up to deliver the windows, it was obvious that it was
too long. So I had to shorten it to fit.
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To shorten a window, the first
step is to figure where to best cut it. This one needed to be cut twice
so it was balanced. Use a Sharpie pen and mark where to make your first
cut.
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Using a corded Dremel tool (battery powered are
nearly useless), cut around the zinc outer bar on each side of the
panel.
Patience and a dust mask are essential at this
stage.
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Then score the glass along the line you drew
on the panel where you want the cut to go. |
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Slide the scored edge over the table edge and push
down, just like a normal cut. |
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Then lift up and down several times so the lead
lines weaken and the glass piece comes off. |
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The second cut is the same, just longer. |
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You may have to use dikes to clip off the lead that
doesn't come loose. |
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Then lay the glass onto your work surface and
measure how long the panel needs to be and draw lines with the help of a
square to show the outside length of the new panel. |
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Next, make sure each end is the same by shifting
the panel till both ends are the same distance from the lines. Then cut
the end glass pieces to fit to the line less the 1/8" that the outer
bar will take up.
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You'll need to apply new copper foil to the cut edge
of the panel.
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Then, stack some scrap glass along the edge of the
panel to hold up the new glass as you solder it in place.
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After tacking the glass in place, surround it with
new zinc outer bar, held in place with nails, ready for soldering.
Once both ends are soldered in place, cut off the
excess outer bar.
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Here is the finished panel, it
fit just right! The extra piece that was cut off will be repaired so
that it is a useable piece of glass and we're going to donate it to the
local Habitat For Humanity builders store where it will go to good use.
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