How To Build A Stained Glass Workbench

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Glass Artists Newsletter - September 2006

You can read our current newsletter here on-line each month, free of charge. We hope you will take the opportunity to let your stained glass artist friends know about the newsletter and if you have students, encourage them to read it.

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In the meantime, we welcome your input and support. Let us know if you have tips and techniques or product information you'd like to share.

In August, we finished a very good project, based on a Green & Green design which was built for the Gamble house in 1908.

They are in the process of being insulated and will installed next week. We're proud of it and we'll show more pictures of it next month. But here are a couple of the panels being built.

Last month we talked about reinforcing a large window, something you may find useful on rare occasions. This month we cover a subject which will be important, sooner or later, building your own stained glass workbench.

Build Your Own Work Bench


1. Start with the top frame which is made of 2 sets of two by fours, 2-48” long and 2-33” long. The total dimension of the top frame will measure 48” x 36” when screwed together. Use glue at the joints and run two 3-1/2” deck screws in the long 2 x 4’s at each end to join them to the shorter boards. (Some folks like to add additional strength to the table by adding an additional short board in the middle of the frame, but this is not necessary). Build 2 of these frames at the same time, the second will serve as the footrest and bracing for the legs.

2. Next, screw the 48” x 36”, ¾” (or ½”) particle board top to the top frame (you may substitute with plywood if desired). You may want to just use screws (no glue) to attach the table top to the frame so that it will be easy to replace it if you ever need to. Screws to attach the top should be spaced 6” apart and be at least 1-1/2” in length.

3. Next, turn the table top upside down and attach the 4 32-1/2” legs to the table top. The boards should rest inside the framework and touch the underside of the table top. 3-1/2” screws should be used to attach the legs and they should be run into the legs from both directions.

4. Before turning the table over, measure down on the legs 8” and attach the extra frame work you built in step 1. When you turn the table over, the top of the frame will be 11-1/2” from the floor, a good height to be able to use as a footrest and to be able to sweep under. Some folks like to add a shelf to the top of the foot rest for storing light objects. This is best done when the table is turned over. Also, a ¾ thick x 1-1/2” wide cleat added to one side of the workbench will give you a good way to use a strip cutter.

Bill Of Materials 6 – 2 x 4 x 8’ 1 – ¾ x 3’ x 4’ particle board or plywood 3-1/2” Deck Screws 1” or longer screws for top attachment Glue Optional – ¾ x 1-1/2” choice lumber for cleat	Cut List 4 – Long Frame Pieces – 48” 4 – Short Frame Pieces – 33” 4 – Legs – 32-1/2” 1 – ¾ x 3’ x 4’ particle board or plywood
I hope you enjoy using your workbench.

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Email: david@gommstudios.com

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