|
|
|
You
can read our current newsletter here
on-line each month, free of charge. We
hope you will take the opportunity to let
your stained glass artist friends know
about the newsletter and if you have
students, encourage them to read it.
If
you'd like a reminder when a new issue is
published simply send us your e-mail
address.
In
the meantime, we welcome your input and
support. Let us know if you have tips and
techniques or product information you'd
like to share. |
End
of January we took down the Covey Center
show. It was a great success and we had a
lot of fun! We
had an exhibit that started on February
5th and ran through Valentines day at My
Finer Consigner in Pleasant Grove, Utah.
The video
I shot of it can be seen at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gUwKUSAxPN8
|
|
|
|
|
We
bought a Kodak Zi8 camera which allows us
to take video and post it to You
Tube.
|
We
enjoyed working most of the month on
transom windows for a home in the American
Fork/Highland area..
|
|
|
|
Last
month we showed how we repaired a
lamp shade and this month, I show the
beginning of how a lamp shade is made
using the Worden mold system.
(Click
here to read part 2)
(Click
here to read part 3)
(Click
here to read part 4)
|
| |
|
Building
A Stained Glass Lamp With A Worden Mold
(Part 1)
|
|
|
There are two parts to the Worden
system of lamp molds. One is the rigid Styrofoam form and the other is
the pattern pieces and magic strips that guide you as you build the
shade.
By dividing the pattern and the
mold apart, stores can carry all their product line without taking up
too much space.
|
|
|
I first used silicone caulking to glue the magic
strips to the mold. The caulking didn't cure, so after two or three
days, I peeled them off and carefully scrubbed them with a small amount
of water to get the bad silicone off the strips. Then I placed a heavy
book on them as they dried so they wouldn't warp.
|
|
|
As you prepare to do a lampshade, you won't have
to make the same mistake I did. You can start by lining up the cut out
magic strips on paper to contain your mess.
|
|
|
Then spray a moderate layer of glue just on the
part of the mold marked for the first magic strip.
|
|
|
Then press the magic strip in place. You'll find
that if you use care and patience, smoothing the strip over and over, it
will begin to stick well.
|
|
|
Work your way up the mold, spraying and applying
each strip one at a time.
|
|
|
Pay attention to how the strips line up with each
other as well as the guide markings on the mold.
|
|
After all the strips are in place, you may want to
apply wide, clear tape to the entire surface, to further hold the strips
down and to provide some small protection for the mold, from dripping
solder and flux.
|
|
|
|
Above are two molds. The one on the
right is the mold we've been working with, covered in tape to protect
it. The one on the left has been used and not prepared or protected.
There are many holes melted right through the mold from solder drips. |
|
