BETTERSTAINEDGLASS.COM
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April 2007 How To Build A Window For A Backlit Space
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BETTERSTAINEDGLASS.COM |
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April
is International Art Glass Month!!!
To celebrate we decided to have an open
house at our studio!!! Please plan
to attend on April 28th (the last Saturday
of the month)
There are several activities planned (from noon to 4 pm) and you'll be able to see the work we've accomplished on the 4 panels we're building for the Provo Arts Council's new building. We'll also be announcing some exciting news for our studio at the event. We're also gearing up with some projects for the parade of homes in May. |
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| One of the most challenging skills a glass artist needs to develop is that of fitting a panel to fit a specific space. This month we show a unique install of glass over a pre-made opening which is lit by cabinet lighting. | |
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How To Build A Window For A Backlit Space |
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To build a window to fit a backlit space, we first measure the space and draw the pattern. Then we cut off 1/4" all around so the piece will fit when it's completed. |
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We built the panel and left 1/4" of free space when we soldered it so that we could easily apply 1/4" zinc outer bar to the piece. (the 1/4" Strip fit's over the glass 1/8" and adds 1/8" so the panel is just the right size) |
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I took two pieces of zinc which were longer than the panel and nailed them in place. |
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Then I laid two small pieces across the spaces and marked where they needed to be cut. |
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We use a Jarmac saw in our studio to cut zinc. It's preferable to a hack saw. |
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I nail them all in place and then tap the ends that overlap so they will be lined up to the edge. This way, I only have to cut off the overlapping pieces on one end. |
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I solder the outer bar at each corner and bring all interior lines to the edge of the zinc. |
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Then I cut off the extra zinc, using the saw blade as a "guide" to keep the window lined up with the edge of the panel. |
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Then I take the panel and check it to make sure it fits the opening. It's a little long and just a slight amount too tall. |
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So I take it over to the wide belt sander. |
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I sand both edges smaller. |
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And I sand a small amount off of the top. |
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Then I check to make sure the panel fits the opening. |
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Next I mark some copper for a frame edge. |
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I cut it with tin snips. |
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Then line it up with the edge of the panel and cut it to length. |
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After tack soldering both top and bottom pieces, I mark an end piece to fit and tack solder it in place. |
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When I have all four pieces in place, I solder the
edges in place firmly and then I cover the copper with a thin, smooth,
layer of solder.
Funny to cover the copper when we'll be adding copper patina to the panel, but I want it to match the rest of the piece. |
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When it's done, the edge looks very smooth. We clean it with window cleaner and kwik-clean to prepare it for patina. |
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Then we flood the panel with copper patina. Flooding it allows it to stay copper. If you don't apply enough, it tries to go black. |
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Jeanne uses a little piece of rag to spread the copper patina around. She'll throw it away after she's done with it because patina dissolves rags. |
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Then she cleans it with Kwik-Clean again. |
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She applies polish and lets it dry on the panel and then she polishes it hard with a soft cloth. |
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There is glass that allows too much light through in the panel and the light from a bulb shows through the glass. |
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So I put it in the sandblaster and shoot a light coat of sand to rough things up on the back of the panel. |
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You can see here how rough it looks.
I didn't solder the back of these panels, but in the future I won't skip this step. It makes the window stronger. |
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Look at how that small amount of blasting cuts down on the "burn through" of the light. |
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The panels are installed using some small screws and the windows look great! |
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Email: david@gommstudios.com |
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Send us e-mail with your comments and suggestions. We enjoy the chance to share with others. |
